Sorry about writing to this french forum in english...
So I have a following problem with my rallye
Car is running idle at about 2000rpm and it sounds like it does it using only 3 cylinders. After a while the idle starts to decrease very slowly and the engine stops running.
When accelerating engine doesn't run quite well between 2500-3000 rpms, but after 3000 rpm everythings seems to be ok.
Is the problem with carburettor synchronization or should i look for a crank in the flexible carburettor supports. One thing might be the idle advancing system of the lighting device? Else???
No idle or idle at 2000rpm
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) and after take a look at the carburettor synchronization -
olivF2000
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Ca va,ca aurait pu etre pire... 
Je traduis un peu:"..le ralenti est à 2000 tours et semble tourner sur 3 cylindres,après quoi le ralenti décroit jusqu'à ce que le moteur cale.Le moteur ne tourne pas très bien dans le zone 2500-3000 trs,mais monte en régime normalement au dessus de 3000 trs.
Est ce que ca peut etre un problème de syncronisation ou de prise d'air au niveau des brides souples,et est ce que ca pourrait etre le système d'avance à froid ou autre problème d'allumage?
Unsport=>your trouble seems to be a bad adjustement of your synchronization,i saw the same problems on Oliive's and Fab's car,and after a good syncronization setting,everything was ok,iddle was ok and running up in the rolls without problems...The best way to be sure ,is also to check your igniting system ,that will be better for your troubleshooting.For the carburtors flexible support,if you wanna be sure ,you can pour some petrol on those,if the idle goes up,that mean you have a leak on this part..
good luck
@+
Je traduis un peu:"..le ralenti est à 2000 tours et semble tourner sur 3 cylindres,après quoi le ralenti décroit jusqu'à ce que le moteur cale.Le moteur ne tourne pas très bien dans le zone 2500-3000 trs,mais monte en régime normalement au dessus de 3000 trs.
Est ce que ca peut etre un problème de syncronisation ou de prise d'air au niveau des brides souples,et est ce que ca pourrait etre le système d'avance à froid ou autre problème d'allumage?
Unsport=>your trouble seems to be a bad adjustement of your synchronization,i saw the same problems on Oliive's and Fab's car,and after a good syncronization setting,everything was ok,iddle was ok and running up in the rolls without problems...The best way to be sure ,is also to check your igniting system ,that will be better for your troubleshooting.For the carburtors flexible support,if you wanna be sure ,you can pour some petrol on those,if the idle goes up,that mean you have a leak on this part..
good luck
@+
I just tried to figure out if there were any air leaks using Auto Pilote spray. Didn't find any leaks but at the same time i tried to pull and push the carburettors and noticed the following.
If I pull carburettors toward/up idle will go down. And If I push them down the idle raises. Also if I pull the air filter box toward to nose idle did raise...
...this has something to do with the flexible supports?
Those flexible supports are quite expensive. They cost 428euros (one piece) here in Finland.
If they are broken I might make these <a href='http://la205rallye.free.fr/bridrigid.htm' target='_blank'>http://la205rallye.free.fr/bridrigid.htm</a> . They are much cheaper to make. I can have a pair of them for just 50e.
Do those rigid supports have any problems like engine heat will move to the carburettors and cook bensin out of them or any other heat related problems?
If I pull carburettors toward/up idle will go down. And If I push them down the idle raises. Also if I pull the air filter box toward to nose idle did raise...
...this has something to do with the flexible supports?
Those flexible supports are quite expensive. They cost 428euros (one piece) here in Finland.
If they are broken I might make these <a href='http://la205rallye.free.fr/bridrigid.htm' target='_blank'>http://la205rallye.free.fr/bridrigid.htm</a> . They are much cheaper to make. I can have a pair of them for just 50e.
Do those rigid supports have any problems like engine heat will move to the carburettors and cook bensin out of them or any other heat related problems?
it's a little expensive!!!!!!!!!-
olivF2000
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I think it's normal that the idle move up or down when you pull or push the carburettors,the petrol level inside moves also in the same way and can make variable the idle...if the petrol pouring test didn't give a result as described in the previous post,i think you can make a good synchronization setting...
For the flexible supports,you can use a sealant like front glass window sealant mixed whith acéton solvent (a litlle) to proof the cracks all around the supports...that's tested by many rallye's owners...
@+
For the flexible supports,you can use a sealant like front glass window sealant mixed whith acéton solvent (a litlle) to proof the cracks all around the supports...that's tested by many rallye's owners...
@+
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megastef
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Hi !unsport a écrit : I just tried to figure out if there were any air leaks using Auto Pilote spray. Didn't find any leaks but at the same time i tried to pull and push the carburettors and noticed the following.
If I pull carburettors toward/up idle will go down. And If I push them down the idle raises. Also if I pull the air filter box toward to nose idle did raise...
...this has something to do with the flexible supports?
Those flexible supports are quite expensive. They cost 428euros (one piece) here in Finland.
If they are broken I might make these <a href='http://la205rallye.free.fr/bridrigid.htm' target='_blank'>http://la205rallye.free.fr/bridrigid.htm</a> . They are much cheaper to make. I can have a pair of them for just 50e.
Do those rigid supports have any problems like engine heat will move to the carburettors and cook bensin out of them or any other heat related problems?
The main trouble caused by rigid supports is emulsion with petrol and air inside the carburettor.
The official Peugeot Factory Gr. A 205 Rallye used flexible ones, which seems to be the best performance and reliability choice (something like 140 bhp on a full Gr.A car
)Otherwise, a rigid system is much cheaper, and combined with rubber o-rings, it can be considered as a good alternative.
Some people reported cases of cracks in the intake manifold, and difficulties in carburation setting, and this solution might need advices from an experimented old-style motor tuner.
In the case you'd really like to buy new original parts, you should really think of ordering directly from France. You'll certainly be able to find an e-mail adress on the http://www.peugeot.fr website.
Hope to be helpful,
Best regards
If you need any translation from anything on the website, please just ask
Modifié en dernier par megastef le 28 janv. 2004, 23:38, modifié 1 fois.
Adding some more symptons which might be usefull
-back firing. when engine runs about 1000rpm there will occur some backfiring and spitting. This happens rarely. Mostly when the engine is not fully warmed.
-When engine gets hot and when it is shutdown -> a bang and flames will come out from the rear pipe (exhaust) just after when it stops running. This happens couple times in a week.
-Is it normal when idling and pumping the brake will reduce idle rpm. If I pump brakes fast enough I can stop the motor running. Is this normal?
...So there might be some other reasons also. Like cranks in any of those hoses going under cockpit. Or the main braking unit/valve)
..or ignition timing. It has been marked and setted in a dynometer and looks like it has not changed from what i was settet, but there is a chance that the camshaft belt has jumped over one teeth.
-back firing. when engine runs about 1000rpm there will occur some backfiring and spitting. This happens rarely. Mostly when the engine is not fully warmed.
-When engine gets hot and when it is shutdown -> a bang and flames will come out from the rear pipe (exhaust) just after when it stops running. This happens couple times in a week.
-Is it normal when idling and pumping the brake will reduce idle rpm. If I pump brakes fast enough I can stop the motor running. Is this normal?
...So there might be some other reasons also. Like cranks in any of those hoses going under cockpit. Or the main braking unit/valve)
..or ignition timing. It has been marked and setted in a dynometer and looks like it has not changed from what i was settet, but there is a chance that the camshaft belt has jumped over one teeth.
Modifié en dernier par unsport le 29 janv. 2004, 11:29, modifié 1 fois.
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olivF2000
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For the back firing,check the valves gap and the ignition advance,and as you said the cam shaft belt jumped one theeth 
Hhen you have flames and bang in the exhaust pipe,that show you have petrol not burned which goes away by the exhaust valves=>check the camshaft belt setting
And when you pump on the brakes,the idle reduce about 100 rpm because the braking is assisted by the vaccum created in the admission manifold...but it's not normal the idle shut down and stop
good luck
@+
Hhen you have flames and bang in the exhaust pipe,that show you have petrol not burned which goes away by the exhaust valves=>check the camshaft belt settingAnd when you pump on the brakes,the idle reduce about 100 rpm because the braking is assisted by the vaccum created in the admission manifold...but it's not normal the idle shut down and stop
good luck
@+
Hi again.
I did some search again and found couple of more things.
1.) The idle ignition part "capsule allumeur" was broken. So the engine gets more air from there. I did suck from the hose but engine didn't react in any way...
This problem explains why there is no idle and the spitting. If the engine gets too much air then the burning of the gas takes longer and the gas will come back to carb or something. Also the lighting timing is incorret when motor is idle running.
I did removed the hose and stuffed hose leads. Also disabled the cold advance mechanism. Engine runs no a little bit better but not good enough...
2.) Second fault I found was much more worse, i guess. The leftmost (from front of the car) flexible support was very wet at the bottom. Stuff in there was quite brown and smelled like bensin.
3.) Spitting points. The spitting comes from two places. First is from the air intake of the weber and second spot was somewhere near the supports.
btw. here are some pictures of my rallye <a href='http://www.wapice.com/~k3/rallye/' target='_blank'>unsports rallye</a>
I did some search again and found couple of more things.
1.) The idle ignition part "capsule allumeur" was broken. So the engine gets more air from there. I did suck from the hose but engine didn't react in any way...
This problem explains why there is no idle and the spitting. If the engine gets too much air then the burning of the gas takes longer and the gas will come back to carb or something. Also the lighting timing is incorret when motor is idle running.
I did removed the hose and stuffed hose leads. Also disabled the cold advance mechanism. Engine runs no a little bit better but not good enough...
2.) Second fault I found was much more worse, i guess. The leftmost (from front of the car) flexible support was very wet at the bottom. Stuff in there was quite brown and smelled like bensin.
3.) Spitting points. The spitting comes from two places. First is from the air intake of the weber and second spot was somewhere near the supports.
btw. here are some pictures of my rallye <a href='http://www.wapice.com/~k3/rallye/' target='_blank'>unsports rallye</a>
A friend of mine did these for me and I'll replace orginals with these as soon as possible and fix the depression system of the lighting rotator/share device. After that tune the carburettors and the timing of the lighting...
The light cleaners are not the only difference, in finland cars has to have also extra side flashes on each side of the car. See sideview picture of my rallye. (extra side flashes are just below the PTS logo)
Also there are some other modifications like the wheel space has extra plastic cover (Some car models have these factory made) and the bottom of the car is better protected from corrosion (Lots of salted roads in winter).